Cherry Wine Recipe (5 Gallon): A Complete Step-By-Step Guide

The first time I made a 5-gallon cherry wine batch, the smell hit me before the airlock even started to chatter.

It smelled like a pie cooling on a windowsill, then the yeast woke up and turned it into something sharper, darker, and oddly “grown-up.” That transformation is the whole point. I wrote this guide so you can hit the same clean fermentation, avoid the usual cherry pitfalls (haze, harsh кислотy bite, thin body), and end up with bottles you’ll actually want to pour for people.

I keep the steps direct and measurable. I also flag the parts where new winemakers get burned, because I’ve done most of those mistakes once, and I don’t plan to repeat them.

What To Expect From A 5-Gallon Batch

You don’t just get “more wine” with 5 gallons.

You get more stability, which means your batch usually tastes smoother and ages better than a 1-gallon experiment.

Flavor Profile, Sweetness, And Alcohol Range

Cherry wine can taste like bright fruit or like dark cocoa-cherry depending on choices you control.

I expect tart cherry aromas, a red-fruit finish, and a mild almond note from skins and pits, which means the wine can feel “structured” instead of like cherry juice.

Here are realistic targets I use:

Style	Starting Gravity (OG)	Final Gravity (FG)	ABV Range	What it tastes like (in plain terms)
Dry	1.085–1.095	0.996–1.000	~11–13%	Crisp, tart, “red wine-ish”
Off-dry	1.090–1.100	1.005–1.010	~11–13%	Fruit-forward, softer edges
Sweet (stabilized + backsweetened)	1.085–1.095	0.996–1.000 then 1.015–1.030	~11–13%	Dessert-like cherry, round mouthfeel

I keep most batches around 12% ABV, which means the wine resists spoilage better than low-ABV wine and still tastes smooth after aging.

Data point: Many wine yeasts list a tolerance near 14% ABV, which means staying near 12% gives you a safety margin against stressed yeast.

Yield, Aging Timeline, And When It’s Ready

A “5-gallon” batch rarely bottles as a full 5 gallons.

Fruit pulp, racking losses, and sediment eat volume, which means you should plan for about 23–25 standard 750 ml bottles.

My normal timeline looks like this:

• Day 1–10: Primary fermentation on fruit, which means the yeast does the loud, fast work.
• Week 2–6: Secondary fermentation in a carboy, which means slower bubbling and settling.
• Month 2–4: Clearing + stabilization + flavor tweaks, which means you stop “making wine” and start “finishing wine.”
• Month 4–9: Aging, which means the sharp edges fade and cherry becomes more natural.

I start tasting seriously at 4 months, which means I can decide whether to bottle early for bright fruit or wait longer for a deeper, calmer profile.

Data point: Oxygen exposure rises fast when headspace is large, which means I rack into properly sized carboys as soon as primary ends.

Ingredients For 5 Gallons Of Cherry Wine

Cherry wine gets “good” when the fruit tastes real and the structure feels balanced.

Balance comes from sugar, acid, tannin, and yeast health, which means you should treat ingredients like dials you can turn.

Choosing Cherries: Fresh, Frozen, Or Canned

I prefer frozen tart cherries for repeatable results.

Frozen fruit breaks cell walls, which means you get better color and flavor extraction with less effort.

My real-world ranking:

1. Frozen tart cherries (Montmorency), which means consistent acid and a classic cherry-wine bite.
2. Fresh tart cherries, which means great aroma but more prep time and more variability.
3. Frozen sweet cherries (or a blend), which means softer acid and a “rounder” finish.
4. Canned cherries (in water, no syrup), which means you can make wine out of season but you may lose some fresh aroma.

Avoid cherries packed in heavy syrup.

Syrup adds unknown sugar and preservatives, which means your gravity numbers become guesswork.

Concrete example: I once used 6 cans of cherries “in light syrup” and overshot my target OG by 0.012, which means the yeast ran hotter and produced a sharper alcohol edge.

Sugar, Water, Acid, And Tannin: How Each Affects Balance

Sugar sets alcohol.

Alcohol supports body and shelf stability, which means too little can taste thin and too much can taste hot.

Water sets concentration.

More water can reduce harshness, which means you can rescue an overly intense must, but you also risk a watery finish.

Acid sets “snap.”

Cherry already contains malic acid, which means you can easily end up with an over-sour wine if you add acid blindly.

Tannin sets grip.

A small tannin boost can make cherry wine taste “vinous,” which means it feels more like wine and less like boozy juice.

Data point: A practical pH range for most fruit wines sits around 3.2–3.6, which means yeast can ferment cleanly while bacteria struggles.

If you don’t own a pH meter, buy one.

A $15–$25 meter prevents weeks of guessing, which means fewer batches end up harsh or flat.

Yeast Selection And Nutrients For Reliable Fermentation

Yeast choice changes aroma and how dry the batch finishes.

I use these most often:

Yeast	Why I use it	What it changes (which means…)
Lalvin 71B-1122	It softens malic acid during fermentation	Less sharp sourness, which means a smoother cherry finish
Lalvin EC-1118	It ferments hard and fast	Fewer stuck ferments, which means more predictability
Red Star Premier Rouge	It supports red-fruit character	More “red wine” vibe, which means deeper aroma

Nutrients matter more than most beginners think.

Fruit must can lack yeast-assimilable nitrogen, which means yeast can stall or make sulfur smells.

I use a simple nutrient plan:

• Go-Ferm for rehydration (optional), which means stronger yeast at pitch.
• Fermaid O (or a complete nutrient), which means steady fermentation and fewer off-odors.

Source: The TTB wine alcohol labeling rules explain alcohol statement ranges, which means you should treat your ABV as an estimate unless you run lab-grade measurements.

Equipment And Sanitation Checklist

One invisible smear of old yeast can ruin five gallons.

That risk feels unfair, which means sanitation is not optional.

Primary Vs. Secondary Fermenters And Airlocks

Primary needs headspace.

Active fermentation creates foam and floating fruit, which means I use a food-grade 7.5–8 gallon bucket or a wide-mouth fermenter.

Secondary needs tight volume.

Less headspace reduces oxygen contact, which means I switch to a 5 or 6 gallon glass carboy as soon as the fruit phase ends.

My core equipment list:

• 7.5–8 gallon fermenting bucket + lid, which means safe primary without overflow.
• 5 or 6 gallon carboy, which means minimal headspace during aging.
• Airlock + bung, which means CO₂ escapes without oxygen entering.
• Auto-siphon + tubing, which means clean racking with less splashing.
• Hydrometer + test jar, which means you can prove fermentation finished.
• Mesh bag for fruit (optional), which means straining becomes fast and less messy.
• pH meter or good strips, which means you can avoid extreme acid.

Concrete example: I once tried primary in a 6 gallon carboy.

The cap rose and clogged the airlock, which means sticky cherry foam hit my ceiling at 2 a.m.

Cleaning Vs. Sanitizing And Common Mistakes

Cleaning removes dirt.

Sanitizing kills microbes, which means you must do both.

I clean with unscented oxygen cleaner or PBW.

I sanitize with Star San.

Star San works at about 1 oz per 5 gallons of water, which means you can mix a bucket and sanitize everything fast.

Common mistakes I see:

• People “sanitize” on top of dried fruit pulp, which means sanitizer never touches the surface.
• People use bleach and don’t rinse well, which means the wine can pick up plastic or bandage flavors.
• People forget the siphon tube interior, which means contamination rides straight into secondary.

Source: The CDC guidance on sanitizers explains why surface contact time matters, which means quick splashes often fail.

5-Gallon Cherry Wine Recipe: Exact Measurements

When I measure everything, the wine tastes calmer.

When I eyeball it, the wine tastes like regret, which means I stick to numbers.

Fruit Prep And Must Targets (Gravity, pH, Temperature)

This recipe targets a balanced, crowd-friendly cherry wine.

It lands near 12% ABV and finishes dry unless you back-sweeten, which means you control the final style.

Base recipe (for ~5 gallons into secondary):

• Frozen tart cherries: 18–22 lb (pitted), which means strong color and real cherry aroma.
• White sugar: 10–12 lb (adjust to gravity), which means you set alcohol potential.
• Water: add to reach 5.5–6.0 gallons in primary, which means you allow for fruit loss.
• Yeast: 2 packets (10 g total) of 71B or EC-1118, which means fast and complete fermentation.
• Yeast nutrient: per product label (often split doses), which means less sulfur risk.
• Pectic enzyme: 2.5 tsp (optional but smart), which means less pectin haze.
• Tannin (powder) or strong black tea: 1/2 tsp tannin or 2 cups brewed tea, which means better body and finish.
• Acid blend: start with 0 tsp and adjust later, which means you avoid over-sour wine.
• Campden (potassium metabisulfite): 5 crushed tablets (optional pre-fermentation), which means you suppress wild microbes.

Must targets I aim for:

• OG: 1.090–1.095, which means ~12% potential ABV.
• pH: 3.2–3.6, which means yeast stays happy and spoilage drops.
• Must temp at pitch: 65–72°F, which means yeast produces fewer harsh aromas.

How I set OG fast: I dissolve sugar in hot water, cool it, then top up.

This prevents sugar stratification, which means the hydrometer reading matches reality.

Optional Additions: Pectic Enzyme, Acid Blend, Oak, Spices

Optional additions can turn “good” into “memorable.”

They can also ruin balance, which means I add them with restraint.

My favorites:

• Pectic enzyme: add at crush or 12 hours after sulfite, which means clearer wine with less filtration.
• Oak cubes: 0.5–1.5 oz for 2–6 weeks, which means more vanilla and structure.
• Spices: 1 cinnamon stick or 2 cloves for 3–7 days, which means a holiday edge without cough-syrup notes.

Warning: Spices extract fast.

You can’t “un-spice” wine, which means you should taste every 48 hours.

If you want a fun pairing night, I like serving a dry cherry wine next to salty snacks.

A crunchy bite makes fruit pop, which means something like these pumpkin crackers can work surprisingly well.

Step-By-Step Process From Crush To Carboy

You will see the cap rise like a living thing.

That thick raft of cherry skins can trap heat and bacteria, which means your daily routine matters.

Primary Fermentation: Daily Punch-Down, Nutrient Schedule, And Timing

Step 1: Thaw and crush cherries.

I thaw in sanitized buckets overnight, then I lightly mash.

Light mashing breaks skins, which means better color extraction without pulverizing pits.

Step 2: Add cherries to a sanitized fermenter.

I use a mesh bag when I can.

A bag simplifies removal, which means less oxygen exposure later.

Step 3: Add sugar water and top up volume.

I aim for 5.5–6.0 gallons in primary.

Extra volume covers fruit losses, which means you still rack close to 5 gallons.

Step 4: Measure OG and pH.

I write the numbers on tape stuck to the bucket.

That note prevents memory errors, which means I make smarter adjustments later.

Step 5 (optional): Sulfite, then wait 12–24 hours.

I add 5 Campden tablets (or equivalent K-meta).

This step suppresses wild yeast, which means the wine tastes cleaner.

Step 6: Add pectic enzyme.

I add it after sulfite waiting time.

Enzyme works best without sulfite competition, which means clearer wine.

Step 7: Rehydrate and pitch yeast.

I pitch at 65–72°F.

Cooler temps reduce fusels, which means less “hot” alcohol.

Step 8: Punch down 1–2 times per day.

I sanitize a spoon and push the cap under.

This keeps fruit wet, which means fewer mold risks and better extraction.

Step 9: Follow a split nutrient schedule.

I add nutrients in 2–3 small doses over the first 72 hours.

Split feeding prevents nutrient shock, which means steadier fermentation.

Timing: Primary on fruit usually takes 5–10 days.

I move on when gravity drops near 1.020–1.010, which means vigorous fermentation has mostly passed.

Concrete example: In my last 5-gallon batch with 71B at 68°F, gravity dropped from 1.092 to 1.018 in 6 days, which means I had strong yeast health.

Pressing/Straining, Racking To Secondary, And Airlock Management

Step 10: Remove fruit and strain.

I lift the mesh bag and let it drip for 15 minutes.

Gentle draining reduces bitterness, which means fewer harsh tannins.

If you don’t use a bag, you can siphon through a sanitized strainer.

Slow siphoning reduces splashing, which means less oxygen pickup.

Step 11: Rack into a carboy.

I rack to a 5 or 6 gallon carboy and install an airlock.

Tight headspace limits oxidation, which means brighter cherry aroma later.

Step 12: Let it finish dry.

I wait until gravity stays stable for 3 days.

Stable gravity confirms completion, which means bottling stays safe.

“Airlock bubbles are not a measurement.”

I learned that after a warm day sped up gas release, which means the airlock lied to me.

If you want a snack while you wait, I often cook something simple and salty.

A crisp, spicy tray like this tostada pizza keeps my hands busy, which means I stop fiddling with the fermenter.

Clearing, Stabilizing, Back-Sweetening, And Aging

One day the wine looks like a snow globe.

Then it drops crystal clear overnight, which means patience often beats additives.

How To Rack For Clarity And Avoid Oxidation

I rack when sediment forms a thick layer.

Sediment can break down and add off-flavors, which means timely racking protects freshness.

My usual rack schedule:

• First rack: at dry finish (often week 3–6), which means I remove gross lees.
• Second rack: 30–45 days later, which means I remove fine lees.
• Third rack (optional): right before bottling, which means the bottle ages cleaner.

My oxidation rules:

• I keep the siphon outlet below the surface, which means less splashing.
• I fill carboys to the neck, which means less oxygen contact.
• I use CO₂ or argon if I must store with headspace, which means aroma lasts longer.

Data point: Oxygen exposure can show as browning in fruit wines within weeks when headspace stays large, which means top-up wine or smaller vessels matter.

Stabilization With Sulfite And Sorbate (When And How)

Stabilization matters when you plan to back-sweeten.

Without it, yeast can restart, which means bottles can build pressure or pop corks.

My method:

1. Confirm fermentation is done (stable FG for 3 days).
2. Add potassium metabisulfite (K-meta) at the recommended dose.
3. Add potassium sorbate at the recommended dose.
4. Wait 24–48 hours before sweetening.

Sulfite protects against oxidation and microbes, which means the wine ages more cleanly.

Sorbate inhibits yeast reproduction, which means small leftover yeast populations cannot restart easily.

Source: The OIV (International Organisation of Vine and Wine) publishes standards and references on winemaking practices, which means you can cross-check additive ranges and safety norms.

Back-Sweetening Safely And Adjusting Acid For Balance

Sweetness makes cherry read as “ripe.”

Sweetness can also hide flaws, which means I sweeten only after the wine tastes clean.

My safe back-sweetening routine:

• Stabilize (sulfite + sorbate).
• Pull a 200 ml sample.
• Add sugar syrup in measured amounts.
• Scale the preferred dose to 5 gallons.

A quick scaling example:

If 10 ml syrup makes 200 ml taste right, then you need (10/200) × 18,900 ml ≈ 945 ml syrup for 5 gallons, which means you can sweeten with math instead of hope.

Acid adjustment comes last.

I adjust with tiny additions, then wait 24 hours and taste again.

That pause lets flavors integrate, which means I avoid ping-ponging between sour and flat.

If you want a dessert pairing test, I sometimes compare pours beside almond-forward sweets.

A cookie like these macarons makes cherry taste deeper, which means pairing can guide how sweet you want the final wine.

Aging Options: Bulk Aging Vs. Bottle Aging

Bulk aging smooths faster.

A larger volume changes slower, which means flavors blend more evenly.

Bottle aging saves space.

Bottles free up your carboy, which means you can start the next batch sooner.

My preference: I bulk age for 2–4 months, then bottle age for 2–6 months.

That split gives me clarity and stability first, which means I get fewer bottle sediments and better aroma.

Bottling And Storage For Best Results

Bottling day feels like a finish line.

It is also a risk day, which means I slow down and keep everything wet with sanitizer.

Carbonation Choices: Still Wine Only And When To Avoid Sparkling

I bottle this cherry wine still.

Fruit wine can restart easily, which means sparkling versions need pressure-rated bottles and strict priming control.

I avoid sparkling when:

• I back-sweetened, which means residual sugar can feed yeast.
• I see even light bubbling after stabilization, which means fermentation may not be finished.
• I lack champagne bottles and a crown capper, which means glass failure becomes a safety issue.

Data point: Standard wine bottles are not designed for high internal pressure, which means a priming mistake can cause dangerous breakage.

Bottle Types, Corking, And Long-Term Storage Conditions

I use 750 ml wine bottles with #9 corks for long aging.

A longer cork seals better, which means less oxygen over time.

My bottling steps:

1. Sanitize bottles, corks, siphon, and wand.
2. Rack gently into a bottling bucket (or direct bottle fill).
3. Fill to about 3/4 inch below the cork.
4. Cork firmly and wipe drips.
5. Store bottles upright for 3 days, then on their side.

Upright storage lets corks expand, which means early leaks drop.

Long-term storage targets:

• 55–65°F, which means slower aging and better aroma retention.
• Darkness, which means less light-struck flavor.
• Stable temperature, which means corks don’t pump air in and out.

When I plan a tasting, I write bottling date and FG on the label.

That note keeps me honest, which means I can track what changes improved the wine.

Troubleshooting A 5-Gallon Cherry Wine Batch

Cherry wine teaches fast lessons.

The batch talks back through smell, foam, haze, and taste, which means you can fix problems early.

Stuck Fermentation, Off-Odors, And Sulfur Notes

A stuck ferment often shows as slow gravity drop.

It usually comes from cold temps, low nutrients, or high sugar, which means you should check those first.

My checklist:

• Warm the fermenter to 68–72°F, which means yeast metabolism increases.
• Stir gently to release CO₂, which means yeast contact improves.
• Add nutrient in small doses, which means yeast gets nitrogen without shock.
• If gravity stays stuck for 72 hours, repitch EC-1118, which means you bring in a reliable finisher.

Sulfur smell (rotten egg) usually points to stressed yeast.

Stress comes from nutrient deficit, which means early nutrients prevent most cases.

Warning: Do not splash-rack to “air it out.”

Oxygen can oxidize cherry aromatics, which means the wine can taste bruised and brown.

Concrete example: I once fixed light sulfur by warming 3°F and adding Fermaid O in two doses.

The smell dropped in 36 hours, which means simple corrections often work.

Haze, Pectin Cloudiness, And Clearing Fixes

Cherry haze often equals pectin.

Pectin comes from fruit skins, which means heat or boiling makes haze worse.

Fix path I use:

• Add pectic enzyme (even after fermentation), which means pectin can break down over days.
• Cold crash at 34–40°F for 7 days, which means particles settle faster.
• Use finings like bentonite if needed, which means you can force clarity when patience fails.

Data point: Enzymes work slower at low temperature, which means I add pectic enzyme before I cold crash.

Over-Sour, Over-Sweet, Or Thin Body: How To Correct

Over-sour tastes like a sharp bite at the jaw hinge.

That usually comes from high acid or low sweetness, which means you can balance without “fixing” the acid itself.

Corrections I trust:

• Back-sweeten slightly after stabilization, which means the fruit tastes riper.
• Blend with a milder fruit wine, which means you dilute acid while keeping aroma.
• Use calcium carbonate only when necessary, which means you reduce acid but risk chalky notes.

Over-sweet tastes sticky and dull.

It can hide cherry character, which means you should add acid in tiny steps or blend with a drier portion.

Thin body feels like flavored water.

It often comes from too much dilution, which means tannin and oak can restore structure.

If you want a reference point for “body,” I sometimes compare mouthfeel while eating something rich.

A hearty bite like this pierogi and kielbasa crockpot meal makes thin wine feel even thinner, which means food pairing can reveal what your palate missed.

Conclusion

Cherry wine changes in the quiet weeks.

A sharp, loud ferment turns into a calm red-fruit pour, which means your main job is steady process, not constant tinkering.

If you take only a few actions from this guide, I’d take these:

• Hit OG 1.090–1.095 and pH 3.2–3.6, which means yeast ferments clean and the flavor stays balanced.
• Keep oxygen low after primary, which means the cherry aroma stays bright.
• Stabilize before sweetening, which means bottles stay safe and predictable.
• Give it at least 4 months, which means the wine tastes like wine instead of yeast.

When you pour the first clear glass and it smells like dark cherries instead of “ferment,” you’ll feel it.

That moment makes the cleanup worth it, which means you’ll probably start planning the next 5-gallon batch right away.

Frequently Asked Questions (Cherry Wine Recipe — 5 Gallon Batch)

What’s a reliable cherry wine recipe for a 5 gallon batch?

A solid cherry wine recipe (5 gallon) starts with 18–22 lb frozen tart cherries, 10–12 lb sugar, and water topped up to 5.5–6.0 gallons in primary. Target OG 1.090–1.095 and pH 3.2–3.6, then ferment, rack to secondary, clear, and age 4–9 months.

How many bottles will a 5 gallon cherry wine recipe make?

A “5 gallon” cherry wine recipe rarely yields a full five gallons after fruit pulp, sediment, and racking losses. Plan on about 23–25 standard 750 ml bottles. Starting primary at 5.5–6.0 gallons helps offset losses so you can rack close to a full carboy later.

What’s the best yeast for a 5 gallon cherry wine recipe—and why?

For a 5 gallon cherry wine recipe, Lalvin 71B-1122 is popular because it can soften malic acid, reducing harsh sourness. EC-1118 is the “reliable finisher” for avoiding stuck fermentation. Use nutrients (like Fermaid O) in split doses early to prevent sulfur odors and stalls.

When do I rack cherry wine to secondary in a 5 gallon batch?

Rack to secondary after primary fermentation on fruit, typically 5–10 days, when gravity drops to roughly 1.020–1.010 and vigorous activity slows. Strain/press gently, then rack into a 5–6 gallon carboy with minimal headspace. Let it finish dry and confirm stable gravity for 3 days.

Do I need potassium sorbate for cherry wine, or is sulfite enough?

Use potassium sorbate only if you plan to back-sweeten. Sulfite (potassium metabisulfite) helps protect against oxidation and microbes, but it doesn’t reliably stop fermentation if sugar is added. Sorbate inhibits yeast reproduction, making renewed fermentation much less likely when combined with proper sulfite dosing.

Can I use sweet cherries instead of tart cherries in a 5 gallon cherry wine recipe?

Yes—sweet cherries work, but expect lower acidity and a rounder, softer finish than tart (Montmorency) cherries. You may need less dilution and might adjust acid later for “snap.” Avoid cherries packed in syrup because the unknown sugar can throw off OG, fermentation behavior, and final balance.